At the end of November, D and I drove down to Dunedin for a long weekend away. We'd been before, as part of our 2016 Road Trip, but couldn't resist the opportunity to go again.
Dunedin is known for its proximity to nature and wildlife, with the Otago peninsula just a short drive out of town, and while the city itself is beautiful, and perfect for grabbing a bite to eat or visiting museums, we planned to make the most of the time away from the city and get out into nature.
On our first day, we headed south of Dunedin to explore the beaches. We started at Tunnel Beach, which is a lovely 2km round walk down a steep path to a spectacular view of the coastline. At the bottom of the track, hidden around the corner is a short walk down through the rock to a secluded beach - hence the name, Tunnel beach. The tunnel itself is man-made, and was dug out to create a beautiful, private beach for the Cargill family.
The beach was a spectacular little surprise; we would never have realised it was there if we hadn't seen some other tourists disappear behind a tuft of grass, almost like something out of Harry Potter! The best time to visit is low tide, so you can fully experience this gorgeous little beach.
Our next stop was Brighton Beach, a little further along the coast. And this one did not disappoint. Long, empty stretches of sand, bright blue skies, turquoise water... this is everything I dream of in a beach. I mean, just look at it!
I'm sure Brighton Beach gets busy on the weekend, but it was total bliss to be on this incredible stretch of coastline alone, taking in the view.
Perhaps the most popular, and famous, beach in Dunedin is St Clairs Beach, just a few minutes drive from the city. This stunning white sand beach is popular for surfing, swimming or just enjoying a coffee with a good view (try The Esplanade or Starfish cafes). Don't miss the famous shark bell, which is still used today to alert surfers to the possibility of sharks in the water.
Otago peninsula
On our second day in Dunedin, we headed out onto the famous Otago Peninsula. We started with a trip to the Royal Albatross Centre, which is located at the end of the peninsula. It is home to the only mainland breeding colony of Royal Albatross in the world, and the tours they run are incredibly informative, and well worth the cost. They start with a short film introduction to the birds, followed by a walk up to the observatory, which is in amongst the nests. We were lucky enough to end up having a private tour (we must have picked an unpopular time of day!) and our tour guide was so knowledgable on Albatross; she seemed genuinely passionate about the work that the Centre does. While the centre works to promote and raise funds for the protection and conservation of the Royal Albatross, it is the Department of Conservation (DOC) that do all the work managing the reserve, monitoring the birds, and aiding with the breeding season.
It's worth noting that if you are on a real budget, and can't stretch to a tour, you can still see the Albatross from the carpark at Taiaroa Head. The best time of day is the afternoon, particularly on windy days, when the young birds spread their wings and practice flying. Although our tour was in the morning, we popped back to the car park in the afternoon and spent an hour watching the magnificent Albatross soaring around us - they're easy to spot by their size, and the way they glide, instead of flapping their wings. You can still see a tonne of them from the carpark!
In the early evening, we continued the birdlife theme and booked ourselves onto a twilight tour at Penguin Place. This private conservation reserve has dedicated itself to preserving the natural habitat of the endangered Yellow-Eyed Penguins, allowing them a safe space to live and breed. In addition to the reserve, Penguin Place has a rehabilitation centre, that takes in penguins of all breeds (though primarily Yellow-Eyed Penguins) to nurse them back to health for release back into the wild. This is a great opportunity to see the gorgeous penguins up close and personal, through small viewing gaps in the enclosures. Everything at Penguin Place is geared towards the health and wellness of the penguins, so visitors are asked to be silent and the enclosures in the hospital only have a small gap to look through. Out in the reserve, they have created a slightly bizarre system of tunnels and trenches to walk through, so you can get right up close and personal with the penguins without disturbing them. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes for this bit, as the ground is uneven and there's a fair bit of walking involved.
In the hospital, we met some gorgeous yellow-eyed penguins who were being rehabilitated, including one who had to wear a little t-shirt to stop him from scratching himself. I mean, come on, how cute is he?!
On our way back from Dunedin to Christchurch, we stopped by the famous Moeraki Boulders, a strange rock formation of spherical boulders that were formed billions of years ago. The boulders are incredibly popular for photographers, and the bizarre formations look out of this world! Even on a cold day, it's worth walking down to see the Moeraki Boulders, and on a good day you could even take a picnic and make a day of it.
Or, if you're looking for something a little more up-market, don't forget to make reservations at Fleur's Place - one of the best seafood restaurants you can imagine! It books up quickly due to its outstanding reputation, so make sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment. The restaurant is built from old demolition materials and other items collected from around New Zealand. The walls are covered in messages from visitors, including some famous people - Rick Stein is a big fan of this place!
Dunedin is a great place to get out and see what New Zealand's nature has to offer, without being too far from the city. Have you been to Dunedin? Or are you planning a trip there soon? Tell me all about your favourite things to do there in the comments below!
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